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Saturday 18 August 2018

Rottnest Island

Overnighting on Rottnest Island gave us two days to have a good look around, and we wondered if we would  get to see those little animals we had read about, the quokka.  We were picked up bright and early from the hotel by the courtesy coach and taken down to the ferry terminal to board the Rottnest Express.

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The first part of the journey took us for a scenic cruise along the Swan River and past where all the rich people live.  This area is called Millionaires Row.  Several dolphins were following the boat, swimming in the wake, and treating us to energetic leaps out of the water.

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Where the wealthy people live

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Leaving the Perth skyline behind us

We arrived at Fremantle to see huge container ships in port, most of them seem to be car transporter ships or container ships.  And by contrast the “Fremantle Rainbow” is a piece of modern sculpture made from shipping containers.

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Fremantle Port

Then it was across the open sea to arrive at Rottnest Island.  The island is 11km in length and 4.5km at the widest point.  No domestic cars are allowed, only service vehicles and a few tour buses.  It is a bikers paradise.

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Rottnest Island was named by Dutch explorer William de Vlamingh in 1696, meaning rats nest, mistaking the quokkas for huge rats. A quokka is a marsupial the size of a hare or domestic cat, and as with other marsupials, such as the kangaroo and wallaby, the females suckle their young in a pouch. Quokkas are generally nocturnal and spend most of the day sleeping and resting under shady bushes and dense vegetation. But on the island they can be seen opportunistically feeding during the day, and are not the least bit shy of people.  It wasn’t long before we saw our first quokka, there were plenty around the small shopping area close by the wharf.  With their dark brown fur and long hairless tail, it was no wonder that they were confused for a large rat at first sight.

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Our first quokka

After booking into our accommodation for the night, it was time to board the bus for our “Discover Rottnest” tour.  The bus had to carefully drive past crowds of cyclists who were exploring the island by pedal power.

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The island is rugged and windswept, with great fishing, we were told, and lovely clear water.  Dolphins live in the waters, and whales come by on their annual migration.

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Our guide stopped the bus so we could see a huge osprey nest built on a rock a little way out in the sea.  We could just make out a little head sticking up, it is Mum sitting on eggs perhaps?

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Osprey nest

This imposing Wadgemup Lighthouse was built in 1896, with a 45,000 candle power revolving first order dioptric light.  This was the last lighthouse in Australia to become fully automatic, in 1986.  Wadgemup is the old aboriginal name for the island and means “place across the water where the spirits dwell”

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Wadgemup Lighthouse

Another quick stop a little further along to show us a sleeping quokka.  They sleep all curled over.

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Sleeping quokka

The next stop was at the West End Boardwalk, nice easy walking over recycled plastic, which needs very little maintenance, we were told.  The wind was ferocious, and the coastal views spectacular.  With the crumbling rocks and pounding waves we were warned not to veer off the pathways.

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At West End Boardwalk

Damian, our tour guide, who also worked on the ferry, was very informative and kept us entertained the whole trip. A great way to see the island and find out some of the history.

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