Whanganui - Unesco City of Design, and Pipiriki

Whanganui is an unique blend of heritage architecture and cutting edge creativity.  Unesco has welcomed Whanganui to its Creative Cities Network, a first for New Zealand.  Congratulations, Whanganui, what a wonderful honour!

On our last full day in Whanganui, we invited Maureen and Russell to join us for a drive to Pipiriki and a picnic lunch.  It was many years since we had driven this road, so long ago that in those days it was a gravel road, although it is now sealed.  Narrow and windy, it took us through tiny settlements with interesting names, rather like those associated with the Grand Overseas Tours taken by young men of the aristoctracy in earlier years.  These interesting little places have now reverted to their Maori names.  Athens, now known as Atane, Corinth, now Koriniti, London, now Ranana, and Jerusalem, now Hiruharama.  We stopped at a lookout point along the way for a lovely view down the river.

The Whanganui River

One of the places we were keen to revisit was the Kawana Mill, in fact, we wondered if in fact it was still there, after all these years.  Luckily it has been well cared for by the NZ Historic Places Trust.  This is the only remaining one of six mills  dotted along the river to mill corn and wheat grown by the Maori people back in the day.

Kawana Mill and Waterwheel

The Miller's Cottage was close by but locked up tight, so we could only peer through the windows.

Miller's Cottage

From here we continued on to Pipiriki and found a nice shady spot in the picnic area to eat our lunch.  This little settlement is the hub for jet boat rides up the river.  We met up with friendly young German tourist who had arrived with her bike off the boat and was planning to cycle to Whanganui - wonder if she realised just how hilly the road was?  She kindly agreed to take our photo for us.  

 Robin, Jenny, Russell and Maureen at Pipiriki

In the grounds was the remains of a totara canoe which used to ply the river, this is just half the remaining length.  And could carry 100 Maori warriors, the sign told us.

Remains of a Maori canoe

Across the road from this rest area was a hotel building which we remembered from our earlier trip all those years ago.  It was never completed, and the story goes that the locals warned that if the building project went ahead it would be razed to the ground.  Why, we are not sure, but there was obviously conflict between the owner/developer and the local population.   So here it sits, still in this condition.

The abandoned hotel project

WE decided that instead of returning the way we came, along the very narrow and windy road, we would take the longer way back through Raetihi and the Paraparas.  There was certainly evidence of the big slips which had come down on the Paraparas a year or so ago, but the damage all seemed to be resolved.  There was another stop along the way, to stop and admire the Raukawa Falls at the lookout.

Raukawa Falls

It was a long day but we eventually arrived back in camp just in time for 4zees.  In fact, Geoff was sitting outside under his awning and had started before us.  We fired up the BBQ to cook our steak, and after dinner gathered outside again in the cool of the evening to enjoy each other's company.  It had been a great day.

Whanganui is an area with a very strong connection to the river.  There is a saying here which sums it up.  "The great River flows from the mountains to the sea.  I am the River, the River is me,"

Ashburton and the Rakaia Gorge

After six nights at Weedon, catching up with friends and family, doing some exploring, it was time to move on.  So we joined the great morning exodus as caravans and motor homes packed up, started their motors and jockeyed for position at the dump station.  No doubt all those empty sites will be filled again by the afternoon.  It was a nice straight drive down SH1, and we drove over the longest bridge in New Zealand at 1.7km over the Rakaia River. 

Longest bridge in the country

I had to keep my wits about me, because just over the bridge is the Rakaia Salmon statue on the side of the road. 

The Rakaia Salmon

After a drive of 70km we arrived at the Ashburton NZMCA Park to stay the next two nights.  Too new to be in the current NZMCA book, Robin found the details in the APP.  Nice and roomy and built in an oval shape with parking on grass.

NZMCA Ashburton

Ashburton was settled in the 1850s and was named after Francis Baring, 3rd Baron Ashburton, who was a member of the Canterbury Association.  The settlers found the plains inhospitable, without trees and constantly buffeted by the continual north westerly winds.  The determined pioneers began working the plains and began producing wheat and other crops, and grazing sheep.  These days local farmers grow potatoes, corn and peas. A vegetable processing factory owned by Talley's is located on the northern outskirts of the town, and was built in 1996 to take advantage of the good soils and irrigation of the Ashburton district.

On Thursday morning we decided to go on an adventure, and explore the Rakai Gorge.  We made a picnic lunch, filled the thermos, and made sure we took along the sun screen and insect repellant too.  The beginning of the drive took us through paddocks of what we presumed to be blueberry bushes, and the eastern side of the Southern Alps loomed up beside us.

On our way to Rakaia Gorge

Originally we had thought we hadn't been this way, but when the scenery started to look familiar we remembered we had done this trip on our 2012 SI travels with our friends.  Stopping at the lookout gave us wonderful views of the river, the Rakaia River is another of Canterbury’s braided rivers.

View from the lookout

There is a carved Pou at the lookout which tells the story of the Taniwha of Raikaia.  According to Maori legend a taniwha river monster lives in the Rakaia Gorge.  His efforts to block the north west wind led to the narrowing of the river, when he brought down huge stones and boulders to halt the progress of the north west demon and imprison him.

Rakaia Gorge Taniwha Pou

With a name like Windwhistle, we just had to check this tiny settlement out so drove through Rakaia to do so.  All we could find was a small school and a garage.  It is located on State Highway 77 near the Rakaia Gorge.  Windwhistle's name comes from the way the wind sounds when the Canterbury north west wind blows.

The only business in this tiny place.

Then we returned to the Rakaia River for lunch, driving down onto the river bank to enjoy the wonderful views and people watch.  Some were frollicking in the river on their boards, others were walking along, still more were putting their boats in the river and departing with a hiss and a roar.  The bank across the river had rows of  different colours laid down,  always interesting to consider how these occurred.  And we watched as trucks, cars and caravans made their way across the two quite different bridges across the river, then slowly drove up the hill.

Interesting layers in the bank, and two bridging spanning the river

A car arrived from Environmental Canterbury and we watched as a young man went about taking many water samples and readings.  Not a bad place to work, is it, especially in the summer.

Taking water samples

On the way back we stopped off at Methven for a look around and an ice-cream.  This is an interesting place as it is on the edge of the Mount Hutt Ski Field, so in the winter this is a very busy place indeed.

This is a town of two pubs, the Blue Pub on one corner and the Brown Pub across the road on the other corner.  The Blue Pub seems to cater for the younger yuppy crowd.

The Blue Pub

The Brown Pub was built in 1923 to replace the former Canterbury Hotel which was destroyed by fire.    This pub seems to appeal to the blokes, it seems to me.

The Brown Pub

We enjoyed our “real fruit ice-creams” in the shady park. along with plenty of others with the same idea.  The ice-cream was so large I couldn't finish mine!

Ice cream time

It was a real “Blue Dome” day, fine and sunny, and we enjoyed a great day out.  That’s what caravan holidays are all about, exploring our beautiful country.

Going Exploring

The plan for Saturday at our rally weekend at Dannevirke was to pack a picnic lunch and have a bit of a mystery tour around the area.  First up was a drive into nearby Norsewood to visit Johanna’s World (gold coin donation) and local man Gundy brought the story to life.  Settled in 1872-75 by Scandinavians and others from Northern Europe, who on their 40 acre blocks, made a living by clearing the dense bush. Norsewood has retained its Scandinavian heritage, and streets carry the original names.    Johanna Christiansen arrived with her family from Norway in 1872 and there a replica of the log cabin where Johanna was born in the Norwegian woods all that time ago. 

Replica of Joanna’s cabin

We also saw a replica “Stave Church” on the grounds, the only  Stave Church (Stavkirke) in the Southern Hemisphere.  Sadly it was locked up tight so we couldn't go inside.

Stave Church

We couldn't visit Norsewood and not say hello (again) to the trolls.   There is Father, Mother and Baby troll, all doing a bit of photo bombing.   These strange Scandinavian creatures are dotted all over the small town, and are considered good luck by the locals.

Watch out, troll alert!

Although we had visited this small town several times, we had never been to the local museum – entry was a  gold coin donation, and Gundy was on hand here too telling us of the exhibits.  Stepping into the old house was like stepping back in time, rooms were furnished just the way they would have been years ago.  At the rear of the house there was an extensive area showing all sort of tools.  Sadly this had to be fenced off as some of the tools had been stolen.

Norsewood Museum

After some retail therapy at NZ Natural Clothing, formerly Norsewear, Robin took the group to visit Mathews Park, not too far away at Namoko Road.  This is a small camping spot, for self contained vans.  Not everyone was aware of this camp, a good one to keep in mind for an overnight stay in the area.

Next stop was at Ormondville Station  was built in 1880 and is one of a handful of early wooden rail buildings that have been preserved thanks to community efforts. Since the closure, in 2001, of the region’s last passenger service, the Bay Express, the station has offered ‘unique boutique accommodation’ for tourists.  There are several examples of old rolling stock in need of attention across from the station. Once again, this was a first time visit for some of our friends.

Historic Ormondville Station

Our last stop of the morning, another new experience for some of our members, was the Makotuku Domain.  Camping is available here for a small charge, and there are a couple of power sites available, as well as toilets and showers.  There is plenty of room in the domain to hold an off power summer rally for our caravan club, we will have to keep this in mind for next year.  The main claim to fame here is a cute little grandstand.  We had originally planned to eat our lunches in the grandstand, but then decided to make the most of the warm sunny weather instead.

Picnic lunch at Makotuku Domain

That was the end of our tiki tour around the area.  Many thanks to Pat for arranging the Norsewood part of our morning, and to Robin for taking us to several “new to some of us” places.

Great Day for a Picnic

Waking up to another  glorious Wairarapa day on Saturday, the suggestion was to go visit Mt Holdsworth and take a picnic lunch.  Great idea, we agreed, as none of us had been there for quite some time.  And just look at the views we got of the sun glistening on the snow topped Tararua Ranges.

We soon drove into the DOC Mt Holdsworth Tararua Forest Park.  Campers can stay overnight for a small fee, but it is free access for day visitors.  There are many walking tracks available, from short gentle walks up to much more rugged ones lasting several days.  Hunting by permit is allowed in the park, and back country huts high in the hills are available for hire for those on hunting trips.

Mt Holdsworth information board

Our small group found a nice grassy picnic area and sat out in the sunshine.  Out came the lunch boxes and the thermos and we were soon happily tucking in to a nice hot cuppa and sandwiches.  It was so pleasant sitting there under the cloudless blue sky in the warm sunshine, enjoying the company and listening to the wonderful bird song.

Our lunch time view

In the background we could hear the gentle sound of the Waiohine River, so some of us took the short, albeit a little slippery walk to find it.  Such a pretty sight.

Waiohine River

We couldn't leave without a group photo – these always take some doing and are never accomplished the first time.  Get everyone seated, then Robin set up the camera, and hurriedly scuttled back to his seat.  This always seems more difficult than anticipated, and this snap is the best of a bad bunch.

Out enjoying the fresh air and sunshine

On the drive back we stopped to admire a group of handsome looking black alpacas grazing contentedly.  They didn’t even stop munching on the grass as we stopped the car for a photo through the window.

Back in camp the managers were busy preparing for an evening get-together.  Some of their guests had been in camp for some months during Lockdown and were finally able to continue with their plans.  Supper was being prepared, and a Karaoke evening was on the cards, we were told.

The next day we all packed up ready to leave, the wind had picked up, so we were lucky to have picked such a perfect day previously for our picnic.  The rain set in on the top of the Rimutaka Hill, and followed us for the rest of the day, and the temperature dropped lower and lower.  We decided to break our journey and spend the night at the NZMCA Park at Plimmerton, and drive home the following  day. 

It was rather wet, cold and very crowded outside

The park was jam packed, crowded with members from the NZMCA Wellington Branch, who were there to help with a mass planting at nearby Taupo Swamp.  Over 1000 plants and trees were planted, we were proudly told.

Taupo Swamp (Ara Harakeke) is a nationally significant flax wetland located between the seaside villages of Plimmerton and Pukerua Bay north of Wellington. The 30 hectare wetland dominated by indigenous species is valued as a recreational asset and for its ecological importance as a habitat for sedges, flax, ferns, shrubs, and grasses.  The swamp is home to a number of threatened plant species, a habitat to bittern and a sizable population of fish such as brown mudfish, longfin eel, redfin bully and banded and giant kokopu. 

This area is also known affectionately as the “Royal Bog”.  The QE11 Trust was established in 1977 and was named after Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth the Second to commemorate her Silver Jubilee. In 1986, the Queen  visited Taupo Swamp to see the Trust's work first-hand.

It may have been cold outside, but Gemma was keeping warm and cozy inside the van.  Oh look, someone has left the wardrobe door open, that’s always worth exploring.

What’s in the wardrobe, she’s thinking

After our usual Sunday morning bacon and egg breakfast cooked by Robin we quickly packed up and headed up the Kapiti Coast to home.  Not too far to drive, about 70km.  Robin was a little concerned about the predicted gale force winds, but we made it home safely.

Cream Horns, Picnic Lunch, and Card Making

Sunday at the caravan rally was full to bursting.   We shared weekend  Rally Captain duties with Dot and Derek, (our day was Saturday)  and they planned a very full Sunday for us.  What better start to the morning than a ride up to Sanson to Viv’s Kitchen, and sample one of her world famous cream horns?  Our previously booked tables were ready and waiting for us – bookings for a group are essential at this very popular café – and 15 happy campers trooped inside for morning tea.  There was soon a long queue waiting to place their orders.

Caravan Club members waiting to place their orders

Most of us ordered cream horns, although I noticed a few other choices on the tables.  We had time to walk around the garden after morning tea.  There are a lot of changes happening outside, new outdoor seating, and a new ablution block planned shortly.

Selwyn, Kath, Jenny and Robin

Morning tea over, we headed northwards to see the windmills of Apiti Wind Farm slowly turning their blades on the hills near the Manawatu Gorge.  These windmills have a hypnotic quality about them and it doesn’t pay to get fixated on their motion when you should be concentrating on the road!

Apiti Wind Farm

Our destination was to the lovely Pohangina Valley to check out a venue for an upcoming rally.  Oops, nearly missed the sign.

We were looking for the former Pohangina School, now run by the community as a picnic and camping area.  Families were enjoying a picnic in the grounds under the shady trees, while others were having fun on the playground equipment.  Such a lovely place, it will be perfect for our rally early next year.  In the meantime out came our folding chairs and tables and we enjoyed our own picnic in the sunshine. On our drive back to camp, we just had to stop at a local shop and purchase an ice-cream – what a great finish to a nice sunny afternoon’s drive.

Picnic at Pohangina

We all gathered in the hall in the evening and were handed a pack containing a card making kit.  We all had the same assortment, and it was our choice to use all or just some of what what provided.  Plus glue, of course.  Here we are -  a study of concentration as we decided on the best way to put our Christmas card together.

Card making exercise

The finished products were rather good

As Sunday was my birthday, we provided some goodies for supper.  Robin had tried his hand at making an old favourite from years ago, chocolate crackles, made with rice bubbles and kremelta.  Several of the caravan club men do some baking occasionally, so I’ll have to encourage Robin to keep it up! 

And talking of cards, this is the birthday card which Robin presented to me, with one of my favourite TV characters, Sheldon, from Big Bang Theory.  I’m not usually a fan of American comedy, but can’t get enough of this band of highly intelligent but socially inept misfits.