Riding the Rails

 Time has got away on me, and I'm only just getting around to tell about our rail trip last month.  Happy travelers waited at the Levin Railway Station and chatted away while we waited in eager anticipation. 

Waiting for our rail adventure

Rather like "Mind the Gap" in UK

 The Spiral Spectacular run by Steam Incorporated left Paekakariki and 7.00am and arrived at Levin Station running a little late.  The excited bunch of travelers identified their correct carriage, and climbed aboard, looking for their seat numbers.  The engine was pulling seven carriages, a bar/lounge car, buffet car, and a viewing car.

Here it comes

Our first stop was Palmerston North when the red diesel engine was changed to an electric engine.  That certainly received a lot of attention from passengers as they crowded around to have a good look.

The engine was changed 

The scenery was spectacular, as we slowly crossed rivers high up on viaducts.  We were amazed to see car loads of train spotters who were following us on the trip, racing ahead in their cars to set up their very impressive cameras on tripods as we trundled past.  

It's a long way down

We had prepared a packed liuch of bacon and egg sandwhiches, shortbread, and somehow a couple of chocolate bars jumped in too.  Robin made the trip to the cafe car for two coffees and we tucked into our lunch at Waiouru.  Some passengers disembarked here for a visit to the Army Museum.

Lunch time 

At last we made it to the Raurimu Spiral, a single track railway spiral, starting with a horseshoe curve.  This was built to overcome the 139m, 456ft height difference on the Main Trunk Line.  The Institute of Professional Engineers of New Zealand have designated the spiral as a significant engineering heritage site.  Unfortunately the passengers had to remain on the train during our stop here.  Guess it was a health and safety requirement, but we had disembarked here on an earlier trip.

Raurimu

On the way back Mt Ruapehu was playing hide and seek with the cloud cover,  but we know it is hiding there somewhere.

Mt Ruapehu

The passengers who had disembarked at Waiouru rejoined the train and we all settled back to enjoy the homeward trip.  Some of us had decided to pre-order our evening meal from the Hunterville Hotel.  The train glided to a stop, the volunteers on each carriage jumped out, and came back loaded with boxes.

Collecting the dinner boxes

Well, we certainly didn't go hungry.  There was chicken salad, a bread roll, fruit salad, cheese and crackers and a brownie.  So much in fact, that we took some of it home with us.

Dinner box

The light was fading and we traveled the last part of the journey in darkness, whizzing by farms and small towns.  Oh look, I think we are almost in Levin.  The train stopped, we were reminded to take all our belongings with us, and we stepped off the train about 8.30pm.  It was a long day, but such fun.

On the Road Again

Where to this time?  Our eventual destination is Cambridge, and we left home having a discussion where we would stay tonight.  Perhaps Marton?  No, not far enough, somewhere further along.  Decisions, decisions.

The clouds in the sky looked interesting as we drove towards Sanson, backlit by the wintry sun trying to break through.  Will the rain stay away, we wondered?  We stopped here to top up with diesel, then virtuously drove right past Viv’s Kitchen without calling in for one of those delicious Chocolate Eclairs.  How’s that for willpower?

Cloud formations at Sanson

Just like an excited kid, I’m always so pleased when we are close enough to drive under the Makohine Viaduct.  This impressive piece of engineering was constructed across the 228m of bush-clad Makohine Stream valley. Built between 1896 and 1902, the Makohine Viaduct project suffered numerous delays due to soil conditions, flooding, inclement weather, and a steel strike in England.  At 72m high the Makohine Viaduct was, when completed, the tallest viaduct in New Zealand.  The structure has been upgraded and strengthened in 1932 when heavier locomotives were introduced, and around 1984 in preparation for the railway’s electrification.  Perhaps I was an engineer in a former life, because I’m always rather drawn to interesting bridges. 

Wet and misty photo of Makohine Viaduct

We had finally come to a decision where to stay for the evening, and pulled in to Gumtree Motorhome Park at 1.00pm.   Checking out the sign, I wondered where they keep that koala?  A bit too chilly here for them, I imagine.

We’ve arrive

“Find a site and I’ll come and find you” we were told when we phoned the owner, so that’s what we did, parking along the fence line as instructed.  All alone so far, unless some latecomers arrive.  There have been some changes since we were last here, we remember parking on the grassy bank overlooking the road far below.  At $25 a night on power, we think it is good value, and the charge is only $15 a night without power. Extra costs however if you want to use the showers and toilets.  Water is available, but no rubbish facilities.

All alone at Gumtree, Taihape

Around the camp

Once we arrive Gemma can hardly wait to get out of the car and into the caravan.  Up on the bed she goes for a grooming session then a snooze to get over her jet lag – she’s been travelling over two hours, don't you know.  Then she spotted some big nasty magpies out side, they would soon make mincemeat out of our cat, I think.

She enjoys being a caravan cat

What is the translation of the name Taihape?  There are a couple of variations.  Originally Ōtaihape, ō: place of; tai: angle; hape: crooked; or Place of Taihape (a personal name); or Place of Tai the hunchback. No reason for the name can be given with certainty.

Settlers first took up sections of land at Taihape in 1894. The main trunk railway reached the town in 1904, and through the 20th century the town housed rail workers, as well as catering to local farms and passing rail and road travelers.  Who can remember stopping at “Taihape on the Main Trunk Line”, rushing into the cafeteria for a cup of railway tea and a pie while on the overnight express?

Lindis Pass, Kawerau Pass to Lumsden

After several easy days traveling, it was a much longer day (150km) from Twizel to Lowburn,  and driving up and over Lindis Pass.  On the first part of the journey we passed the results of farmers cutting hay, first we saw rectangular bales piled high, and then paddock after paddock of round hay bales.  All getting ready for winter feed.

Time to make hay

Driving over the Lindis Pass we noticed that the hills had changed from the very bare hills that we saw around Twizel, and now were lightly covered in scrub.  The  Lindis Pass links the Mackenzie Basin with Central Otago, crossing  a saddle between the valleys of the Lindis and Ahuriri Rivers at an altitude of 971m..

There was no room for us to pull into the lookout, but a little further on we stopped at this sign.  We had now arrived at Central Otago, or as the locals call it, “Central”.  It was all downhill from here, and this side of the pass seemed much steeper than the ascent.

We are now in Central Otago

The road took us alongside Lake Dunstan, and we soon arrived al Lowburn NZMCA Park, another new to us camp right on the lake side.  Set in  a large graveled area, rubbish facilities but no water or dump station.

Lowburn NZMCA Park

The town of Cromwell was not too far away, and look, there is the famous fruit sign, the huge  1.7 tonne apple, pear, nectarine and apricot landmark.   Designed by  Otto Muller  the landmark cost $64,000 to build and a further $24,000 in voluntary labour, and was completed in November 1989.    Cromwell  has a well-earned reputation as the fruit bowl of New Zealand. The ideal climate makes  Cromwell’s cherries, apricots, peaches, nectarines and plums  sought-after by high-end export markets, supermarkets, and visitors who call in to buy from the local growers. 

Cromwell Fruit Sign

As we did, buying a box of delicious peaches, and a bag of new seasons apples, then queuing up with other eager customers to buy  a “real fruit” ice-cream.    Absolutely delicious – there is nothing better than an ice-cream on a hot sunny day!

In the 1970s Cromwell became the site of a hydro-electric power scheme which created the huge Clyde Dam to harness the Clutha River.  Lake Dunstan, which formed behind the dam, submerged much of the area in 1992, but a number of historic buildings were saved and relocated.

Lake Dunstan, and a view of the camp from the lake edge

Then it was another big day, 161km from Lowburn to Lumsden along SH6.  This took us through the steep and winding Kawerau Gorge.  In 1880 engineer Harry Higginson was called on to built a bridge over the Kawarau Gorge, a difficult task in a sheer rocky gorge that was known as a tunnel for strong winds. To  meet this challenge, he came up with an innovative bridge design with a suspension bridge that was 42 m high with a 120m long span. The work won a world’s top engineering award, a Telford Premium, in 1882.  In 1963 a new bridge opened and the 1880 bridge was retained for its historic value.  Over 100 years after the bridge was originally constructed,  the bridge became the site of the world's first commercial bungy jump. A.J. Hackett set up operation on the bridge in 1988, with people testing their limits by leaping from the equivalent of a 10-storey building held safe by just a giant elastic band around their ankles. Since 1988, the bridge has primarily been used for bungy jumping and biking.

Gold mining also took part in this inhospitable place, and the remains or maybe replicas of Chinese goldminers huts can still be seen.    The Goldfields Mining Centre is an historic reserve which has been set aside by New Zealand's Department of Conservation to preserve an authentic mining site where gold has been mined for over 100 years and can still be found in the rocks & gravels. 

Goldminers huts in Kawerau Gorge

Driving through Frankton, we were astounded to see just how much this place has grown since we were last here, and the road followed lower Lake Wakatipu – the name means “place where the demon lies”.  According to Maori legend the curiously shaped lake was created when a giant demon captured the daughter of a Maori chief and took her to his home in the mountains.  After struggling against a strong north-easterly wind, the demon lay down with his head near Glenorchy, his knees at Queenstown, and his feet at Kingston.  The girl’s lover crept up to sleeping demon and set it on fire, and its body burnt deep into the earth.  All that remained was the beating heart within a gigantic trench which gradually filled with water to form an enormous lake in the shape of the demon.  We pulled off the road at a photo stop to capture some snaps of this beautiful lake.

Lake Wakatipu

Our stop for the night was at the Lumsden Reserve NZMCA Park, not actually overflowing with campers as there were only a big bus and a motorhome parked up.  We all enjoyed happy Hour together later in the afternoon.

Overnighting at Lumsden

After settling in, and having a late lunch, we drove up town to check out Lumsden – and discovered that the pie shop we remembered from our last visit has now closed down.  The  railway station is now preserved as a tourist information centre. The Lumsden Heritage Trust has displayed the chassis of New Zealand Railways steam train.  Lumsden welcomes freedom campers and the  railway station offers free parking for caravans and motor homes, sinks available for dish washing, toilets, fresh water and a dump station. 

Trains on display at Lumsden Station

Lumsden used to be a major railway junction with lines departing to all four points of the compass. The Kingston Branch from Invercargill ran north–south through the town, while to the west was the Mossburn Branch and to the east was the Waimea Plains Railway that connected with the Main South Line in Gore.  Sadly, those days are long gone now.

The weather has been fabulous lately, real ”blue dome days” as we have been traveling about – lets hope it stays that way.  Next stop, Te Anau.

Going Exploring

The plan for Saturday at our rally weekend at Dannevirke was to pack a picnic lunch and have a bit of a mystery tour around the area.  First up was a drive into nearby Norsewood to visit Johanna’s World (gold coin donation) and local man Gundy brought the story to life.  Settled in 1872-75 by Scandinavians and others from Northern Europe, who on their 40 acre blocks, made a living by clearing the dense bush. Norsewood has retained its Scandinavian heritage, and streets carry the original names.    Johanna Christiansen arrived with her family from Norway in 1872 and there a replica of the log cabin where Johanna was born in the Norwegian woods all that time ago. 

Replica of Joanna’s cabin

We also saw a replica “Stave Church” on the grounds, the only  Stave Church (Stavkirke) in the Southern Hemisphere.  Sadly it was locked up tight so we couldn't go inside.

Stave Church

We couldn't visit Norsewood and not say hello (again) to the trolls.   There is Father, Mother and Baby troll, all doing a bit of photo bombing.   These strange Scandinavian creatures are dotted all over the small town, and are considered good luck by the locals.

Watch out, troll alert!

Although we had visited this small town several times, we had never been to the local museum – entry was a  gold coin donation, and Gundy was on hand here too telling us of the exhibits.  Stepping into the old house was like stepping back in time, rooms were furnished just the way they would have been years ago.  At the rear of the house there was an extensive area showing all sort of tools.  Sadly this had to be fenced off as some of the tools had been stolen.

Norsewood Museum

After some retail therapy at NZ Natural Clothing, formerly Norsewear, Robin took the group to visit Mathews Park, not too far away at Namoko Road.  This is a small camping spot, for self contained vans.  Not everyone was aware of this camp, a good one to keep in mind for an overnight stay in the area.

Next stop was at Ormondville Station  was built in 1880 and is one of a handful of early wooden rail buildings that have been preserved thanks to community efforts. Since the closure, in 2001, of the region’s last passenger service, the Bay Express, the station has offered ‘unique boutique accommodation’ for tourists.  There are several examples of old rolling stock in need of attention across from the station. Once again, this was a first time visit for some of our friends.

Historic Ormondville Station

Our last stop of the morning, another new experience for some of our members, was the Makotuku Domain.  Camping is available here for a small charge, and there are a couple of power sites available, as well as toilets and showers.  There is plenty of room in the domain to hold an off power summer rally for our caravan club, we will have to keep this in mind for next year.  The main claim to fame here is a cute little grandstand.  We had originally planned to eat our lunches in the grandstand, but then decided to make the most of the warm sunny weather instead.

Picnic lunch at Makotuku Domain

That was the end of our tiki tour around the area.  Many thanks to Pat for arranging the Norsewood part of our morning, and to Robin for taking us to several “new to some of us” places.

Norsewood and Surrounds

Leaving sunny Napier behind, we are making our way slowly home.  First stop was Anzac Park at Norsewood, set in a remnant of 500 year old native bush, New Zealand as it used to be.  In 1912, the surrounding land was ballotted for settement, and the Norsewood Town Board lobbied to preserve this last remaining 16 acres as a Recreation Reserve.  There were about a dozen caravan and campers staying here, enjpoying the peace and serenity of this lovely place.  All this for the grand price of $2 per night.

Staying at Anzac Park

We went to check out the bush walk through the forest, not all the way, sadly as this pair of oldies couldn't manage a long walk.  The trees were glorious, and nothing bets the smell of New Zealand bush, does it.  Sunshine dappling through the trees made such a pretty picture.

A forest full of giants

One of the campers told us of an old corrugated iron changing shed, in the bush, not far from the river.  And sure enough, there it was.  I didn't want to venture inside, who knew what might be lurking there?

The old changing shed

As it turned out, there were photo boards inside telling of the history of the area.  The idea is to make a permanent story board to be displayed in the hut.

Photo board concepts

We decided to take a little tiki-tour the following morning, stopping off at Ormondville Station, the only surviving Vogel Class 5 station left on the operating system, and is a Rail Heritage Trust classified building.  Ormondville is a very sleepy place, and we noticed that the pub across the road is now all boarded up.

Historic Ormondville Station

Then we drove on to Norsewood township, originally part of the 70 mile bush.  The first thing we noticed was a carved tree, very cleverly done.

Craved tree stump

In their eagerness to attract the prospective immigrants the government officials were less than honest in describing the conditions the immigrants would meet. There was no explanation of the difference between the dense NZ bush with its heavy undergrowth and numerous hardwood trees and the more open coniferous softwood forests of their homelands.​  An agreement was made  which would allow for 3,000 emigrants to New Zealand. In the years 1870-76 nearly 1,000 Norwegians moved to the Norsewood area.

Norsewood seems to have a thing for trolls, Father Norvirke, Mother Margit, and Son Ormvah.  Norsewood has chosen to celebrate its Scandinavian heritage via trolls – mythological creatures which are said to populate the northern-hemisphere homeland.  They are considered good luck and stand guard over Norsewood, their beloved town.

The trolls nd me

We were planning on getting a coffee at the local café but it was closed, so had to settle for an ice-cream from the local dairy.  So we sat on a seat outside in the hot sun, trying to finish our ice-creams before the sun melted them, sadly, I didn't win that game.  But it gave me a chance to check out the shop’s history.  There has been a store on this site since 1877, trading over the years as a grocer, draper, general importer and post office.The original building has been burnt down, replaced, and burnt again.  The current building was constructed in 1917.

On our drive we checked the campsites at Norsewood, one campervan staying there, and at Makotuku Domain, only two vans there.  We have previously stayed at both these rural camps some time go and were interested to see how busy they were over the New Year period.