Final Days in Napier

 The Easter weather in Napier was a mixed bag, reasonably fine but with cold winds, making sitting outside a rather chilly experience.  Luckily it had warmed up on Sunday morning and we took ourselves off to the Hastings Market.  Geoff and Eileen had been experiencing battery troubles so decided to head home a day early.  We waved them goodbye with a few Easter Eggs from the Easter Bunny.

What a crowd there was, families with kids, people with dogs and plenty of golden oldies like us.  My aim was to purchase some fresh seasons apples, found them easily enough.  Then we did some cheese tasting, and three lots of cheese jumped into our bag.  A couple of nice fresh bread rolls for our lunch, and some beef from the meat stall, and that was our lot.  We came away feeling quite pleased with our purchases.

After lunch back at the van we took a trip with Owen and Helen out to Esk Valley to see how the Hawkes Bay Caravan and Camping Club was faring after the disastrous Esk Valley floods.

As we had been told, the club had lost their small apple orchard in front of the camp.  The club rooms had been gutted and the club members were waiting to be told what could be done.  Obviously, there had been a lot of work done clearing silt and debris from the grounds, but now everything is at a standstill.  Power and sewerage will need to be reconnected.  So sad to see.

HB Clubrooms will need a lot of work

To cheer ourselves up we stopped for a fruit ice-cream on the way home.  And I just needed to purchase a pumpkin, it will be soup time before I know it.

Helen, Owen and Robin enjoying their ice-creams in the sun shine

We enjoyed  4zees  back in camp with some Easter Eggs the Easter Bunny had dropped off for us to enjoy.

 Oh yummy, Easter Eggs

John and Flo departed the next morning, so then we were down to two vans.    Our anticipated  family lunch didn't go ahead as my niece was not well, so we took ourselves off to check out the delights of Napier.  The Six Sisters row of houses were worth a photo shoot.  Apparently they were built by an architect who wanted a two storey house for each of his daughters.  They are among the few survivors of the massive 1931 Napier earthquake.  Some of the  houses are now owned by commercial businesses, with a few  reverting back into family homes.

The Six Sisters

We then drove around the port to check out Perfume Point freedom camping area.  There was plenty to see, ships and tugs off the coast, families playing on the beach, even a couple of brave people taking a dip.

Whose is this we spotted?  It was Doug and Desma, our friends from the ICA group, who had also arrived for a breath of salty sea air.  We joined them at the picnic table and had a nice long chat.  We couldn't make it to the previous ICA rally so it was great to catch up with them again.

Desma and Doug from ICA group

Back in camp again I started to feel unwell so decided to drive back home in one day, instead of stopping somewhere overnight as we had planned.  Up and over the Saddle Road we went, dropping down into Manawatu, and we were nearly home.  Thank goodness, I was feeling quite peaky.

Wind turbines on top of Saddle Road

My Covid test came back positive - oh dear.  After several years of feeling smug because I had never contacted Covid, my time has arrived.  Guess I wont be going anywhere for the next week or so.

Day in the Big City

We've had an adventure, and traveled into Wellington City by train.  It was free courtesy of of our Gold Card, all seniors have free off peak travel on trains and buses.  But first we had to drive down to Waikanae, the commuter trains don't come any further up the line than that.  Being school holidays the train was quite busy, Mums and Grannies out with the kids.  We were shocked to hear an altercation as two  (male) pensioners boarded the train – rude words were exchanged, but luckily it didn't come to blows.  Really, at their age, they should know better!  And its always upsetting to witness bad behaviour.  The train takes an hour to travel from Waikanae to Wellington, a nice trip that goes through seven tunnels (I counted them), along the coast, stopping at small stations all the way. 

We had a couple of things to attend to in the big city, and then found a nice café for an early lunch.  Robin committed a faux pau when he asked the waitress with the lilting accent what part of Ireland she was from.  She’s from Scotland, she told him!  That’s rather like confusing a Kiwi with an Aussie, isn't it.  Luckily she wasn't too upset and we enjoyed our tasty lunches, savoury waffles for me, and a pulled pork burger for him.

Lunch time

It was a beautiful day and as we ate our lunch we people watched through the big windows.  The locals say, “You cant beat Wellington on a good day” and that’s so true.  The notorious Wellington wind was nowhere to be found, and there were plenty of young girls sporting bare legs and arms, and short skirts and dresses.  Showing just how warm it was.  After lunch we jumped on a big yellow double decker  bus to take us down towards the station, with one more job to do on the way.  No, we didn’t climb the stairs to the top, a bit hard on our knees and back these days.  But fun all the same.

Walking the last little way to the station, we stopped by the Beehive, our Parliament Buildings.  With the General Election coming up fast, I imagine that most of the MPs were out and about trying to drum up votes.

The Beehive

I’ve always loved the grandeur of Wellington Station (opened in 1937) and when I first started work as a 15 year old I traveled to and fro in the wooden  old carriages, pulled by a diesel engine.  In those days there were smoking and non smoking carriages, so I had to make sure I didn't get stuck with all the smokers.  Growing up in a smoking household, I couldn’t stand the smell of cigarettes. 

Wellington Railway Station

And there’s our train, on Platform 4, ready and waiting for us.

We chugged past Wellington Harbour, looking across at Eastbourne, it’s very expensive real estate around there.

Then into the first of the tunnels and we were on our way.  The views from the train are always quite different that traveling by road.  We passed close by the back of the Plimmerton NZMCA site, a place we have stayed at several times.  It’s always very popular, being close to the ferry terminal, for people coming and going.

Caravans and motor-homes at Plimmerton

It was a nice restful journey back to Waikanae, so restful that Robin nodded off and I had to awaken him.   We always enjoy train travel so we are sure to do it again sometime. Certainly beats trying to find parking in the big city.

Art Deco Festival

Napier is known as the Art Deco Capital of the world.  Following a massive earthquake (7.9 on the Richter scale) on the morning of Tuesday 3 February 1931, fires destroyed most of the commercial heart of Napier. The city was rebuilt in the style of that era and by the end of the decade Napier was the newest city on the globe. The annual Art Deco Festival celebrates the rebuilding of the city after this horrendous time.  Our intrepid group of ICA travelers parked up close to all the action at Napier Intermediate School, just a shortish walk to the city centre.  It seemed longer to those with knee and hip problems, but everyone made it there and back.

Nice to be parked on green grass

The Art Deco Trust puts together a very full programme,  and as first time attendees, everything was new to us.  The highlight to us was the vintage car parade, with 300 pre-1946 cars registered.  We walked through Clive Square and admired a young family dressed up for the day.  It was lovely to see so many getting into the spirit with their vintage styled clothing.

We spent some time in this area admiring these beauties as they awaited the start of the display.  How did the passengers clamber up into those dickey seats and get settled while dressed to the nines, I wonder?

Waiting to take part in the parade

In my opinion, there is nothing more thrilling than a pipe band - the Hawkes Bay Caledonian Pipe band started playing and got my toes tapping and my (diluted) Scots blood racing through the veins.

The Royal New Zealand Navy Band looked extra smart as they started playing before the parade.  The navy played a crucial role in Napier during the 1931 earthquake.  At 10:46 am on 3 February 1931 an earthquake registering 7.8 on the Richter scale shook throughout New Zealand, its epicentre just 15.2 kms north of Napier. The initial shock lasted for 2.5 minutes.  In the city of Napier, buildings and chimneys toppled, roads broke apart and the earth heaved and opened.   Water rushed out of the harbour as the ground rose. HMS Veronica was ‘left high and dry, all the wire mooring lines broke, but the ropes, made from New Zealand flax, held, and prevented her from rolling over on her side.’ Commander Morgan landed rescue teams to assist the injured, feed the hungry and help establish a sense of order amidst the chaos.  Fires were ablaze on shore, power and water supplies were cut and hundreds discovered they were homeless.  Two merchant ships at anchor nearby, the Taranaki and Northumberland placed themselves under naval command and assisted in the relief efforts. 

Royal New Zealand Navy Band

Once the car parade, the bands, and marching girls had moved off, it was time to make our way to see some of the other delights on show.  Ladies walked by dressed in their beaded finery, fancy feather headdresses, and some sporting fox furs around their shoulders.  The gents were also elegantly dressed, braces, hats some in knickerbocker trousers too.  And look what fun this bunch of revelers are having.

That looks like fun

There was a concert in full swing at the Sound Shell, this is free entertainment for the masses.  Seasoned attendees knew to take some folding chairs with them, while others had to stand, sit on the grass, or find somewhere to perch on.

Concert at the Sound Shell

Flying displays by the Warbirds Display Team roared overhead.  We watched as they flew in formation, and looped the looped.  Then one would break away from the group, fly up high, then nose down seemingly in a suicide mission, luckily pulling up in the nick of time and continue on his way.  Thrilling stuff indeed!

Warbirds Display Team

Getting footsore and a little weary we wandered back to the van, stopping to admire some of the Art Deco buildings as we passed by.  There are many, many Art Deco buildings, as this was the style that the city was rebuilt in after the earthquake. 

Art Deco architecture

Later in the afternoon our group had their own Best Dressed competition, and what a lovely bunch we were.  After the judges put their heads together, the winners were announced.  The Best Dressed Couple was Val and Graham, the Best Dressed Lady was Jeanette, and Jim took the prize as the Best Dressed Gentleman.  Congratulations to all.

Val and Bill, and us, Jenny and Robin

All in our finery

Some rain fell on our last evening in Napier, quite heavy for a while so it is sure to be welcomed by the region.  It didn’t stop us sitting outside under the awning though,  and the cooler temperatures were a relief. 

To the end of the Unsealed Road

Heading north on Friday we left busy Takaka behind and arrived at Collingwood – this  town is an ecotourism destination due to its proximity to Kahurangi National Park and Farewell Spit Nature Reserve.  Originally named Gibbstown,  the settlement was later renamed Collingwood after Admiral Cuthbert Collingwood, Lord Nelson's second-in-command at the Battle of Trafalgar in 1805.  Gold was discovered in 1856 and the town's population surged, and it was suggested that Collingwood should become New Zealand's capital. But a more central location was preferred for the capital and the recommendation was for Wellington.

Although fires have raced through the town several times in the early years, Collingwood has retained some interesting old buildings.  The original  Post and Telegraph Office was a very grand building in it’s time, although postal business is now done through the general store.  And the old Court House is now a thriving café, filled with customers sitting outside under the shady umbrellas while they sipped their lattes.  Collingwood is much smaller and without the frenetic pace we found at Takaka.

It was another 10kms up the road to get to our destination, the Old School Café and Bar at Pakawau, another POP which had been recommended to us.

The POP has a nice grassed area and was fairly full when we arrived, and Robin expertly backed the caravan into a space.  Several more vans arrived in the afternoon, so things were rather cozy.  A group of campers were collected from the gate to go on a Farewell Spit Tour in the afternoon.  We did this tour quite some years ago, and booked the tour while staying in Nelson – if we had thought about it we should have camped a lot closer.  The alarm was set for 4.00am, and off we set in the car, driving for miles in the dark, over the rather nasty Takaka Hill, all the way up to Collingwood.  The timing of the trip depends on the tide, so that was why we had to set out so early. 

After settling in, and having lunch, we set off to find the famous historic Langford Store at Bainham.   The store has been in the same family four generations, since it opened in 1928.  EB Langford was the initial proprietor, followed by his grand-daughter Lorna who ran the store and post office for 63 years.  Lorna retired in May of 2008, handing over the reins to Sukhita Langford, who hopes to do both the community and family proud by continuing the traditions that her great grandfather instilled more than 80 years ago.  Sadly, we couldn’t enter the shop, and sample a delicious afternoon tea which the shop is famous for.  The shop is closed on Fridays (why Friday, we wondered?) so all we could do was take a photo and peep through the windows.

The historic Langford’s Store

A little further up the road was Salisbury Falls – to get there we had a short trek over the paddock, climbing two stiles, then down a rocky path.  There was a family frolicking in the river, having a great time on yet another very hot summer’s day.

Salisbury Falls

On Saturday morning  there was a general exodus from the camp, and we were the only ones left behind.  But never mind, we were going out and about again, and there were sure to be some more neighbours when we returned.  The day was overcast and windy, but still rather warm and muggy.

All alone at the Old School Café

We decided to travel north, as far as the road would take us.  The sealed road finished at Puponga and we decided to turn left and travel along the unsealed road to Cape Farewell, passing by Old Man Rock on the way.  It certainly was an impressive rock!

Old Man Rock

The Cape Farewell car park was quite busy, and we trudged up the hill to the lookout point.  And joined the other tourists all looking over the rail at the  rather impressive sight in front of us.

Cape Farewell

The sea was surging in endless waves and over the rocks.  We looked down to the seals far below.  Some were sunning them selves on the rocks.  And another group were gently bobbing about in the waves, they didn’t seem to be feeding, just enjoying themselves and having fun. 

Seals having fun

We’re having fun too

Back to the cross road we went, and turned onto the other unsealed road, which took us to the Farewell Spit Information Centre and Café.  We ordered a coffee and date scone and sat on the balcony looking over the spit.  There were large black birds bobbing about off shore, and surprisingly, they turned out to be black swans.  We were surprised to find them in the sea, thinking they were fresh water birds, but according to our bird book, it mentioned that they were found in the tidal waters, including those  east of Farewell Spit.

Farewell Spit has been a bird sanctuary since the 1930s and provides a home for over 90 bird species. Bar tailed godwits, knots, curlews, whimbrels and turnstones fly around 12,000 kilometres every northern hemisphere autumn to spend the summer here in the south. The spit also has a gannet colony.  To guide passing ships, Farewell Spit's first lighthouse was built in 1869. In the early years the lighthouse site had no vegetation and windblown sand was an ongoing problem for the keepers. Then one clever keeper organised for small loads of soil to be delivered with the mail. He planted a windbreak of macrocarpa pines which are still there to this day. The pines protect the station from the shifting sands and provide a daylight landmark for passing ships.

Views of the sandy spit from the café balcony

We are so pleased that we have driven to the end of the road north on the South Island.  Rutted and rough it may have been, but the 4WD coped well.  With our sightseeing trip over for the day, we drove back to the camp for some late afternoon R&R – and we were no longer alone, several vans had arrived while we were out.