Twizel and the Clay Cliffs

Another lazy start to the day, once again we only had a short trip to our next stop, 61km to Twizel.  We stopped at another “photo stop” overlooking Lake Pukaki on the way.  This one had a huge car park, plenty of room for those towing caravans, and there were cars, campers and another caravan ahead of us.  Just look at that glorious view, with Mt Cook (Aorangi the cloud piercer) looking back at us across the lake.

Lake Pukaki

Arriving at the Twizel Combined Services Club, we went to book in for the next two nights, $10.00 per night.  Park anywhere, we were told, around the back on a grassed area.  All alone so far, but who knows who might roll in later in the day.

Twizel Combined Services Club

Twizel is the largest town in the Mackenzie District, and the  town was founded in 1968 to house construction workers on the Upper Waitaki Hydroelectric Scheme. After a quick look around the Twizel shopping area, we decided that yes, it has grown since we were last here.  Robin wanted to find Lake Ruataniwha, not too far away.  Lake Ruataniwha is an artificial lake in the Mackenzie Basin in the South Island of New Zealand. It was formed in 1977–1981 as part of the Waitaki hydroelectric project.  Each year rowing regattas take place on the lake. 

Lake Ruataniwha

We stopped at High Country Salmon cafe for a drink, what a busy place, heaving with visitors.  Many of them were purchasing fish food to feed the salmon in the pools, this was a real favourite with children.  There seemed to be plenty of overseas tourists in the café, many family groups eating sushi and rice bowls, all helping the local economy.  After my coffee I helped out too, and bought some salmon from the fish shop to take back to the caravan.

High Country Salmon

The next morning we packed a picnic lunch and set off to see clay cliffs near Omarama.    We had heard about them but only recently discovered that you could drive up close.   The cliffs are on private land, protected under QE2 Covenant, and there is a charge of $5 per car to go in the honesty box as you proceed through the gate.  It was a long dusty drive up an unsealed road to reach the car park.

The information board explains that these eroded cliffs are formed by the active Osler fault line which continually exposes the clay and gravel cliffs.  Wind and rain has eroded into the canyon walls, producing gravel debris which has been washed out during flash floods.  The debris has accumulated in alluvial fans that slope down to the Ahuriri River.

Clay cliffs of Omarama

It was a stinking hot day, and crowds of people were slapping on sunscreen, hats, and setting off up the track.  After a nosy around, we returned to the car with the windows wound down, and ate our picnic lunch.  But not before we asked one of the friendly visitors to take our photo for us.  I’m sure I heard him mention “how cute” –  we are a bit old for cute, I would have thought!

Dwarfed by the grandeur

We were reasonably close to the settlement of Omarama so decided to drive though and check it out.  Omarama has wonderful conditions for gliding and is a spectacular soaring site.  World and national gliding records are broken here on a regular basis.  The conditions provide a unique opportunity for long distance and high altitude flight.  This place seems to be thriving, the Wrinkly Rams café was full of customers, they offer a Merino sheep shearing show as well, and we noticed plenty of other cafes and pubs doing very well too.    No wonder the sign for Omarama features a Merino ram.

Omarama, a busy little place indeed

Our last bit of sightseeing for the day was to visit Lake Ohau.  The isolated Lake Ohau Alpine Village was in the news for all the wrong reasons in October 2020 it was overcome by fire.  Fanned by strong winds the fire destroyed 48 structures and burnt through more than 5500 hectares of farm, and DOC land, and damaging infrastructure such as power lines, fencing and reticulated water systems.  At the peak of the fire 11 helicopters and more than 100 people were deployed responding to the incident.  The fire was later found to be caused by a powerline maintenance fault.  We drove around the village to find that some homes had been replaced, some were still being built, and there were still empty sections awaiting rebuilding.

It was rather windy down by the shores of Lake Ohau, and the wind was whipping up waves in the water.  This lake is not glacier fed like some of the others we have seen recently, so is a much darker colour.  Plenty of mountains crowding around the brooding looking lake.

Lake Ohau

Returning to Twizel Combined Services Club, we settled down with a cuppa.  From being lonely petunias the night before, we have now been joined by two large buses, two more caravans and a motor home.  Our time here has come to an end, and we will be moving on in the morning.