The Alpine Village of St Arnaud

We were on our way to St Arnaud, traveling the length of the of the Wairau Valley Road SH63.  Both the Wairau River  and the Alpine–Wairau Fault runs along the length of the valley.  This could be well be a valley of two parts, as grapevines galore stretched as far as the eye could see.  Well established vineyards, and brand new plantings with tiny vines encased in green plastic wrappers, putting their tiny roots down into the shinglely soil as they get established.  Most of these vineyards have large frost control fans to protect the fruit from the damaging frost.  About halfway long the valley the landscape changed to forestry, Radiata Pine and Douglas Fir, and farming.  Another thing we noticed was the number of one way bridges on the road, we must have crossed about a dozen of them. 

One way bridge on route

104km later we arrived at the CAP at Beechwood Drive.  There is a very large graveled parking area, completely empty, so we had the pick of the sites.  Cost per night is $10.00 and payment is made in an Iron Maiden honesty box.  Sadly, the on site café is no longer operating, and is up for lease, but there is an Antique Boat Museum close by for those who have an interest in this sort of thing.

We have the place to ourselves

St Arnaud was on my wish list for this trip.  I remember travelling through this tiny alpine village back in 2018 and remarking that I would like to stay here for a night or two next time we were down this way.  Situated at 650mt and according to Mr Google, the population was 120 a few years ago.  But I suspect it may have well increased since then, as there is quite a few flash new homes built on the hillside by the caravan park.

The DOC (Dept of Conservation) Information Centre was teaming with people.  People were booking into the campsite or making enquiries about the tramping tracks nd huts close by.  We cannot stay at any DOC Camps because of having Gemma with us, no pets allowed.  There was an interesting display in the building, plenty to look at and read.

Inside the DOC building

St Arnaud is situated on the edge of Lake Rotoiti and we drove the short distance down past the camp to the lake edge at Kerr Bay.  There was a water taxi tied up at the wharf ready to take trampers where they want to go, and it is also available for a tour around the lake.

Water taxi

View of the lake

There’s not too much in this little village, a couple of motels, a volunteer Fire Brigade, a church, a country store, this CAP and adjacent Boat Museum, and the country store.  We noticed the store had a café so we popped in to have an early light lunch, coffees with a cheese scone for me, and a hot pie for him.  Several other travelers passing through were picking up food and drinks too.

St Arnaud’s store

There has been quite  heavy rain off and on while we have been staying here, but after all, we are surrounded by mountains.  Gemma has been keen to get outside, but once the door is opened and she feels the cold wind on her face, she scuttles straight back inside and settles down on the bed instead.  She must be a fair weather cat, I think, and likes to curl up in the lap top bag to help me while I’m blogging.

All comfy inside the van